IN THE SHADOW OF PILGRIMS
An account of a walk from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostela
by
Graeme Bennett
7 September – 29 October, 2012
(gbwalk2.blogspot.com)
Via de la Plata
This is the blog I wrote in2012 while walking copied from the internet but in correct chronological order. Some photographs have been added to the text. The original blog posted has disappeared so this is a rerun. Regrettably, photos are not available here.
The charity giving page is closed.
(Some editing of the blog may be required.)
My profile on the BLESMA site
Having retired I spend a lot of time in France and Spain. Amongst other activities I served with the British Army for some 21 years. In 2005 I completed the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) from Le Puy en Velay in central France to Santiago de Compostela in north west Spain taking 84 days to do it. Other walking and trekking include the Himalayas and an ascent up Mt Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak. I am now raising funds for the British Limbless Ex-Servicemen's Association (BLESMA).
En France je soutiens Médecins sans frontières (MSF). Vous pouvez faire des dons à www.alvarum.com/graemebennett
Links to my other blogs:
Through the Shadows on NW Africa (see separate posting within this blogger site)
11 August, 2012
Introduction
After a lot of thought quite a while ago I decided to do another pilgrimage. This time it will be from Sevilla in south Spain to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain. The route follows what is known as the Via de la Plata (VdlP) and the principal towns through which it passes north of Sevilla are Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Zamora, Orense and on to Santiago. The distance is about 1000 km and will take about 7 weeks. My departure date will be 7 September although I will arrive in Sevilla on 5 September and I estimate I could arrive in Santiago around 25 October. That makes this writing at D – 26.
Another decision made was to raise funds for a charity well worth supporting about which more details below.
So, why am I walking? It’s another challenge, especially to do the whole journey at one time, and it provides an opportunity to fundraise. I understand the VdlP is an attractive route though not easy as there are quite a few days when the daily pilgrimage will be long (25 – 30 km) especially in the south where villages towns are far apart. Also, at the beginning in south Spain it will be hot but I did not want to finish the route in November when, if one is unlucky, it can be quite cold. My last experience in 2005 of finishing the Camino de Santiago in mid-November was good but other pilgrims since have had a grim time in November in Galicia in the snow.
I walk alone except when meeting other pilgrims on the way and at night in the albergues (hostals / inns) where I will stay.
The charity
There are many charities associated with the military from which to choose. Walking with the Wounded, Help for Heroes, the Army Benevolent Fund are but 3 examples but I have settled on a fourth: the British charity is the British Limbless ex-Servicemen’s Association (BLESMA) whose funds go towards helping serving and non serving members of the armed forces who need assistance…. Here is their description of their activities:
“It is the charity that directly supports all British service men and women who lose limbs, the use of limbs or eyes or the sight of an eye in the service of our country and we are with them all whenever we are needed for the rest of their lives. Our work starts with rehabilitation proving that there is life after amputation. Our work is about amputee helping amputee – the fellowship of shared experience. Our work is about life long welfare support, about campaigning for what they deserve and about being there when old injuries come back to haunt. Our youngest Member is 19 and our oldest is 99.”
BLESMA needs £2m a year to meets its objectives and I want to help in a small way by inviting people I know – and may not – to give to this worthy cause. Their site is here: http://www.blesma.org/about-blesma
I urge you to look at it and make a donation to BLESMA through this sitewww.justgiving.com/GraemeBennett
A donation of 2% of the distance I shall walk – 1000 k m – would be good = £20; more would be better!
If all goes well I shall update this blog from time to time (depending on computer availability).
13 August, 2012
Préambule
Après une longue déliberation j’ai décidé de faire un autre pèlerinage. Je vais faire le chemin que l’on appelle la Via de la Plata (VdlP) / Camino Mozarabe depuis Séville, sud Espagne, jusqu’à St Jaques de Compostelle (Santiago de Compostela) au nord ouest d’Espagne. Le trajet est long étant de 1000 km. Mon but est de le faire en 50 jours. Je ne pense pas que ça sera facile car les températures seront élevées en debut de septembre et plusieurs étapes seront longues, de 30 km par exemple. Par contre je ne veux pas arriver trop tard en novembre quand il peut être froid.
Je partirai de Séville le 7 septembre et je maintiendai ce blog en anglais et français au fur et mesure de mon périple.
Pour mes lecteurs français je présume qu’ils peuvent lire et comprendre pour la plupart mon anglais, donc je ne répète pas ce que j’ai écrit en anglais.
(English translation of the above:
Foreward
After long deliberation I have decided to undertake another pilgrimage. I am going walk the route which is known as the Via de la Plata (VdlP) / Camino Mozarabe from Seville in south Spain to Santiago de Compostela in north west Spain. The way is long: 1000 km. My aim is to complete it in 50 days. I do not think it will be easy as temperatures will be high at the beginning of September and several stages are long, some 30 km for example.. On the other hand I do not want to arrive too late in November when it could be cold.
I will leave Seville on 7 September and I will write this blog in French and English during my walk.
For my French readers I assume they can for the most part read and understand English, therefore I will not be repeating what I have written in English.)
19 August, 2012
9 August 2012 0 Comments
The route at D- 19
I’m posting a map here just to give an idea of the route to be followed. However, I have discovered a live Google map showing the VdlP which I have included in my links (see right). You can get more details by playing around with the arrows on the screen and clicking on the blue/ yellow shell…..
Of particular interest to me is the profile of the route which, overall, varies between 20m asl at Seville to over 1300m in northern Spain.
For purists the Via de la Plata or Camino Mozarbe continues north after Granja de Moreruela. At this village I turn west onto the Camino Sanabrés as far as Santiago. The term “Plata” is frequently translated as “silver” into English, but in this context this is not quite correct. The route was originally a Roman route from Mérida to Astorga but it became lengthened in Arab times and was used for the transport of goods by Arabs when they occupied parts of Spain. Its name may derive from Arab times and could be of Latin or Arab origin. The term “Mozarabe” seems to come from the use of the route as a pilgrimage route to the supposed tomb of St James in Santiago by Christian Arabs in the Middle Ages.
24 August, 2012
4 August 2012 0 Comments
Mèdecins sans frontières
En France je soutiens Médecins sans frontières (MSF), une organisation très connue à travers le monde. Leurs employés , bénévoles et autres liés avec eux font un support remarquable partout, notamment ces jours en Syrie. Si vous voulez les soutenir comme moi merci de faire un don à www.alvarum.com/graemebennett d’où vos fonds seront envoyés aux MSF. (Il se peut que le site soit en anglais. Cliquez sur le lien “English” en haut à droite pour le faire passer en français.)
En bas se trouve une carte pour montrer le trajet que je vais suivre. Les hébergements varieront entre auberges pour pèlerins et hotels à ma discrétion, mes besoins de santé, le niveau de confort qu’il me faut……!
Actuellement je me forme en faisant des promenades tous les quelques jours. Jusqu’à présent tout se passe bien. Je calcule que mon sac va peser environ 10.5 kg avec tout ce qu’il me faut y compris de l’eau, de la nourriture pour la journée.
Je suis à Départ (D) – 14.
(Translation:
In France I support Médecins sans frontières (MSF), a world wide known organisation. Their employees, volunteers and others linked with them provide remarkable support everywhere, and in particular in Syria at the moment. If you can support them as I am please make your donation at www.alvarum.com/graemebennett from where funds will be sent to MSF.
Below there is a map to show the route I will follow. Lodging varies between inns for pilgrims and hotels at my discretion, my health needs, the level of comfort I want…..!
At the moment I am training by doing walks every few days. Up till now everything is going well. I reckon my rucksack will weigh 10.5 kg with everything I need including water and food for the day.
I am at Departure day (D) – 14.)
3 September, 2012
3
September 2012 1 Comment
Posted at D - 4
Last day at home before the next adventure and all is ready. Tomorrow, Tuesday, we drive to Sancerre to spend the night and, I hope, try some of the good wine which comes from that area, as recently recommended by a friend who came to stay. The next day it’s onward and north to Beauvais from where I fly to Seville. In its way it is ironic to be motoring and flying to reach a destination within hours from which I shall then walk for weeks to get to another part of Spain. However, many pilgrims do it this way. The “purist” pilgrim starts his pilgrimage from his own front door.
I have done a certain amount of training – walking – 155 km with rucksack weighing about 10 kg, the longest distance being walked about 20 km and taking 5 hrs to do it, thus a speed of 4 km in the hour. On gradients uphill I can expect this to be slower and over difficult terrain / bad weather. Stops to rest and feed will reduce my speed as well.
Watching the Paralympics these last few days has been an inspiration: may I walk as well as the athletes perform! I will probably not see the end of the Games as I shall be on the Via and they may not be on Spanish TV.
Thursday is a day of acclimatisation and sight-seeing in Seville and my Santiago Stroll starts on Friday.
6 September, 2012
6
012 2 Comments
“These boots are made for walking….”
Arrived Seville yesterday evening to a temperature of 34C. I attended Mass this morning in the enormously impressive cathedral to ready myself for the pilgrimage to start early tomorrow. The stonework, windows, chapels and internal lighting are very striking as is the outside of the cathedral.
Other buildings in Seville are also impressive: the Alcazar, Plaza de España to name but two - and the city is thronged with tourists walking, travelling around on horse drawn carriages, bicycles…. It is a good place to visit at this time of year. A beautiful city, vibrant and which will be in total contrast to the villages I shall be visiting over the next few days.
Seville cathedral
Plaza de Espana, Sevilla
Outside one of the west doors of the cathedral is a stone set in the pavement marked “Camino de Santiago – Via de la Plata” from where one starts the walk (2 minutes from my hotel).
I have obtained my “credential” from my hotel, the document which is the pilgrim´s passport and which I must have stamped at each place I stay as evidence of doing the Via. At the end of the walk I produce it at Santiago Cathedral in order to obtain my “compostela”, the certificate in Latin to show completion (of at least 100 km) of the Via.
—————————————————————————————
“So that´s what they´re gonna do…..
Ready boots?
Start walking!”
12 September, 2012
Un jour dans la vie d’un pèlerin
12 September 2012 1 Comment
Seville to Fuente de los Cantos D1 – D6 128 km
(Je n`ai pas eu acces à des ordinateurs depuis Seville.)
Pour donner une idée du jour de ce pèlerin je parlerai du premier jour…..
Sortie de l`hotel a 07h20 avant le crépuscule je rencontre les gens se précipitant vers leur travail. Lever du soleil a 08h10: je suis dèjà entre les champs de patates et ayant reçu un cri d’un homme en me souhaitant “Buen camino!” après 20 minutes de marche.
A travers champs, un village (Santiponce) où je prends la pause café après 10km et 2h sur le chemin.
J’attrape un Belge et un Espanol qui marchent ensemble, l’un è Santiago, l’autre à Zamora.
Plus tard, sur une longue piste rectiligne (8km) je dépasse un couple hongrois qui déjeunent. Comment sais – je qu’ils sont hongrois? Parce que j’ai perdu mes lunettes sur la piste et j’étais obligé d’aller les chercher! Heureusement, après 500m le couple m’a rencontré avec mes lunettes qu’ils ont trouvées.
A l’approche du village de Guillena j’entends les pétards è midi. Arrivé en ville on aperçoit que c’est la fiesta! Une dame m’explique tout: grande fête demain (samedi). On découvre que l’auberge pélérine est fermée pour les 3 jours de fête: il faut se rendre a l’Hotel Frances où la bonne dame explique que tous les restos / magasins sont fermés, donc pas de repas ni a 14h00 ni le soir. Bars et hotels ferméss!
Plus tard: 2 français arrivent mais la hospitalière est partie. Vu du fait que les pèlerins n’ont pas de portable j’appelle la dame qui arrive et installe les 2 pèlerins. On ne peut pas laisser les gens en détresse, surtout des français!
Où est allé tout le monde? A une enorme fiesta avec chapiteaux pour chaque société du village (une trentaine peut-être) – musique, bars, ânes, chevaux……
La fiesta
Nationalités rencontrées: 2 hongrois, 2 français, 1 belge, 1 espanol.
(Translation:
A day in the life of a pilgrim
(I have not had access to a computer since leaving Seville.)
To give an idea of this pilgrim’s day I will write about the first day….
Leaving my hotel at 0720 hrs before dawn I meet people rushing to work. Sunrise at 0810 hrs: I am already amongst potato fields and have already heard a shout of “Buen camino!” after 20 minutes walking.
Amongst fields, a village (Santiponce) where I pause for a coffee after 10 km and 2 hours on the way.
I catch up a Belgian and a Spaniard who are walking together, the one to Santiago, the other tp Zamora.
Later, on a long straight track (8 km) I overtake a Hungarian couple who are lunching. How do I know they are Hungarian? Because I lost my glasses on the track and I was oliged to go back to find them! Fortunately, after 500m the couple met me having found my glasses.
As I approach the village of Guillena I hear fireworks at midday. Arriving in the village I discover there is a fiesta! A woman explains all: a big fiesta tomorrow (Saturday). We find out that the pilgims’ albergue is closed for the 3 nights of the fiesta: we must go to the Hotel Frances where the good lady informs us that all the restaurants / shops are closed, therefore no meals at 2 pm nor in the evening. Bars and hotels closed!
Later: 2 French people arrive but the hotel owner has gone. As the pilgrims have no mobile phone I call the woman who comes and lets the 2 pilgrims in. One cannot leave people in distress, especially French!
Where is everybody? An enormous fiesta with marquees for each business in the village (about 30 perhaps) – music, bars, asses, horses…..
Nationalities met so far: 2 Hungarians, 2 French, 1 Belgian, 1 Spaniard.)
12 September, 2012
A place in paradise?
Today, Day 6, a very good walk firstly through pig farms, a cattle farm and areas laid to trees which look like small oaks or maybe cork trees which have been abundantly evident on previous days. After spotting our village at some 14 km distance the walk was across the “desert”: brown and yellow earth / grass. No rain here since April and temperature today started a t 22C and is 35C in late afternoon.
The lodgings I am in today are magnificent. A small hotel like a private house with a garden. green lawn, flowers, palm tree, swimming pool which I have used. In fact it is an oasis in the desert and in this arid and hot setting is just like paradise to a weary pilgrim after some 22 km of walking this morning.
Garden at El Zaguan, Monasterio
I have now met several other pilgrims most of whom are heading for Santiago. With one exception all have done at least one camino in Spain before.
Tomorrow I head for Zafra, a proper town, where I anticipate staying 2 nights to look around – and rest the body!
15 September, 2012
15 September 2012 0 Comments
Dramatis personae
Fuente de los Cantos to Villafranca de los Barros D7 - D9 47 km Total now 175 km from Seville
Having “breakfast” in Zafra
Yesterday was a rest day in Zafra, a small town. In the afternoons between about 2.30 and 5.30 it was like a ghost town: not a soul moved, but at 2230 last evening the square in front of the hotel where I was staying was like a zoo! People and children of all ages thronged the place which is in the old town. The square has colonnaded archway almost all around it, is filled with bars and outside all of them there are the usual tables and chairs and the locals are there drinking and talking, nay shouting at each other. This is a very noisy country! Walk into any bar and the TV is blaring and watched only occasionally (as for the F1 Grand Prix last Sunday).
Zafra Plaza Mayor at night
Alcazar, Zafra
A very nice easy walk today through one of those villages which I think has a wonderful name: Los Santos de la Maimona (the Saints of Maimona). Fairly level terrain, wide open spaces, very long views to hills in the far distance which I may reach tomorrow or certainly the next day by which time I will be in Mérida for another 2 night stop. I understand there is some sightseeing to be done there whereas Zafra did not offer a lot.
Some of the cast of characters I have met so far:
Roland & Agnes – French from Lyons – just under 60 – former restaurateurs in New Caledonia for 20 years – going to Salamanca to celebrate 42 years of marriage and then on to Santiago. Had a spot of bother on Day 3, our longest walk (30KM) when they lost their way and eventually called for help from the Guardia Civil. We were in almost totally uninhabited country for all of that day. Very nice couple who have now jumped ahead by taking a bus to Mérida so may not meet them again.
Roland, Agnes & Manuel
Frank and Franziska – German father and daughter from Frankfurt and Berlin – he is a neuro psychologist consultant; she is an actress in Berlin, Bern and Zurich – about 69 & 30s – walking for 2 weeks only so I have said good-bye to them. Lovely people.
Frank and Franziska
Nadia – German – of German father and English mother – seems to be a “professional” walker, having been a potenial career woman with fancy car, m/c and can ride dressage, now walks and has walked several caminos and earns money in between walks – 45 years old – walking to Santiago, then Fatima in Portugal and beyond. Another very nice person.
Manuel – French – of French mother and Spanish father – ran own business installing / maintaining fridges, etc, now retired – travels all over the world – 61 – going to Santiago but now one day ahead of me.
“Sheila” – Australian - about 27 – wants to work in Madrid – going to Santiago but is now 3 days at least ahead as she walking longer stages.
Fernando – Belgian – about 60 – walking to Santiago in remembrance of his son who has died.
Fernando
Finding a computer on this route has not been easy and then they do not necessarily have the correct programme to publish on my blog. However, yesterday I managed to upload a few photos without captions (it would take too long to include them). See www.flickr.com/photos/inthelot They are shown in reverse chronological order.
Where do I stay?
For the most part I have been staying in hostals rather then the albergues which means a single room, sheets, towels and so on rather than beds one on top of the other, a confined space to move about in, in short a dormitory existance. The one albergue I stayed in at Castilblanco was not good but the one in Monasterio, which I only visited, was about the best I have ever seen. Frank cooked dinner there that night and he produced an excellent meal for the 8 of us who sat down on the terrace outside as the sun went down.
The hostals are good and cheap (E10 – 20), no meals, and the albergues cost E5 – 10, sometimes free. The “menu del peregrino” is available in villages at E9: three basic courses with wine and bread included.
12 September 2012 1 Comment
Today, Day 6, a very good walk firstly through pig farms, a cattle farm and areas laid to a tree which looks like an small oak or maybe cork trees which have been abundantly evident on previous days. After spotting our village at some 14 km distance the walk was across the “desert”: brown and yellow earth / grass. No rain here since April and temperature today started a t 22C and is 35C in late afternoon.
The lodgings (El Zagaun) I am in today are magnificent. A small hotel like a private house with a garden. green lawn, flowers, palm tree, swimming pool which I have used. In fact it is an oasis in the desert and in this arid and hot setting is just like paradise to a weary pilgrim after some 22km of walking this morning.
Hostal El Zaguan
I have now met sseveral other pilgrims most of whom are heading for Santiago. With one exception all have done at least one camino in Spain before.
Tomorrow I head for Zafra, a proper town, where I anticipate staying 2 nights to look around – and rest the body!
16 September, 2012
mebuivez la pist16September 2012 mments
Suivez la piste
Villafranca de los Barros to Torremejia D10 28 km 203 km from Seville
C’est dimanche, le 16 septembre: je me reveille a 03h00 du matin après avoir dormi 4 heures. Le vacarme en dehors de ma chambre dans la rue est trop pour dormir. J’écoute. Je crois que ce sont des tracteurs. Je ne m’endors pas. Alors, que fait un homme tout seul sans femme qui ne dors pas la nuit?…..
Non, non: vous vous trompez! Non, je ne lis pas, mais je glisse de mon lit pour, par curiosité, regarder à travers le volet pour savoir ce qui se passe. Oui, ce sont bien des tracteurs et remorques et les voitures et les fourgeonettes (?) qui dépassent ma fenêtre avec plus d’une frequence que les avions arrivant à l’aéroport de Londres! Ca doit etre le vendange des raisins.
Petit déjeuner avant de sortir a 06h30. Comment trouver la piste? Je cherche les flêches jaunes lesquelles indiquent le chemin toute au longue de la route. Difficile à discerner dans le noir mais, avec mes notes du chemin, le problème est rapidement resolu.
Je regarde le ciel noir pendant que mes chaussures font le “crunch, crunch, crunch” sur la piste, et je vois le Polaris (l’étoile du nord), le Grand Ours, le Petit Ours, les constellations de Cassiopeia et Orion, et la planete Vénus (probablement). Le chemin n’est qu’une piste vaguement blanche avec des champs à coté tout noirs. Tout d’un coup, juste devant moi, une étoile filante. Plusieurs tracteurs me doublent: nuages de poussière dans leurs sillons.
L’horizon à droite devient rose pale, puis rose foncée. Je vois les vignes; les silhouettes des sierras et des collines se montrent contre le ciel rose. Le soleil prépare à se lever, et puis, a 08h10 précise je vois son orbe regardant timidement à travers les feuilles des vignes. Il prend courage rapidement et se lève baignant la terre, les vignes, les oliviers avec une couleur plutôt jaune au debut. Les ombres sont longues….et toujours le “crunch, crunch, crunch” des chaussures et le “toc, toc, toc” de mon baton.
Après presque 7 heures de marche j’arrive à ma destination (Torremejia) où je vois les tracteurs et les remorques pleines de raisins. Quelques cyclistes sur le chemin faisant leurs sorties dominicales et un pèlerin et 3 marcheurs irlandais: tel est le bilan du jour.
(Translation:
Follow the route
It is Sunday, 16 September : I wake up at 3 in the morning after having slept for 4 hours. The racket outside my romm in the street is too much for sleeping. I listen. I think they are tractors. I do not go to sleep again. So, what does a lonely man without a woman do who does not sleep during the night ?...
No, no: you are wrong! No, I do not read, but slip out of my bed and, out of curiosity,look out through the shutters to see what is going on. Yes, there are tractors and trailers and cars and vans which are going past my window with more frequency than planes arriving at London Airport! It must be grape picking time.
Breakfast before leaving at 0630hrs. How do I find the way? I look for the yellow arrows which point the way throughout the entire route. Difficult to see in the dark, but with my notes of the way, the problemis rapidly resolved.
I look at the black sky as my boots maka a “crunch, crunch, crunch” on the track, and I see the Pole Star, the Graet Bear, the Little Bear, the constellations of Cassiopeia and Orion, and the planet Venus (probably). The route is only a vaguely white track with black fields on each side. Suddenly, just in front of me, a shooting star. Several tractors pass me: clouds of dust in their wake.
The horizon to my right becomes pale pink, then dark pink. I see the vines; the silhouettes of the sierras and the hills are limned against the pink sky. The sun prepares to rise, and then, at 0810 precisely I see its orb timidly appearing through the leaves of vines. It gathers courage quicklyand rises bathing earth, vines, olive trees with a rather yellow colour to start with. The shadows are long…and always the “crunch, crunch, crunch” of boots and the “toc, toc, toc,” of my stick.
After nearly 7 hours walking I arrive at my destination (Torremejia) whre I see tractors and trailers filled with grapes. A few cyclists on the route making their Sunday outing and one pilgrim and 3 Irish walkers: such is the tally of the day.)
16 September, 2012
Me and my shadow
16 September 2012 1 Comment
Walking northwards he is beside me throughout the morning. We do not speak, each lost in his own thoughts. Early in the day he is long but shortens as the morning advances. He keeps perfectly in step with me. When I pause for a rest he usually disappears discretely, a tree being my haven of repose. Once walking again he re-appears. Oft times he is in the field beside me, but at other times he is on the track with me.
In the daytime his behaviour is impeccable. However, at night he acts up. He can be in front of me one moment and, as I walk, he rushes to get behind me, then he is in front again. Sometimes he multiplies and becomes two; 3 or 4 of him are not unknown all dancing around me as I move.
As I get further north I fear I will see him less and less often and may even lose him for days at a time – but at night he is always there, my ephemeral shadow.
19 September, 2012
ber 2012 0 Comments
Mérida
Arriving in Mérida
Torremejia to Aljucen D11 – D13 32 km 236 km from Seville
Mérida, where I was for 2 nights, is a city with a long history: 2000 years or more. And the evidence of this is in several sites. Most of the evidence is Roman dating from the first century BC but also some before, and 2-300 years following, then Visigoths, then Christians, then Arabs. Christian troops conquered the city in about 1230 and then the French took over in the 18th century subsequently yielding to the Spanish.
The VdlP largely follows a Roman road and this was quite obvious between Villafranca and Torremejia when the camino was dead straight over nearly flat country for 10 – 15 km.
In Mérida the remnants of an aqueduct from BC are impressive as is the Roman theatre, used today, and other sites including an Arab “Alcazaba” (= fortress, I think). The pilgrim enters the town over a Roman bridge and is absorbed into a town both ancient and modern.
Mérida, Teatro Romano
Unemployment is about 25% of the working population in Spain. Looking around the Plaza de España at 1130 am there appears to be no fall off in spending: bars and restaurants are full with people having a late breakfast – but shops are open from 1000 – 1030. They could do with a few more waiters in the bars so one did not have to wait for 15 minutes for service!
That said a travel agency informed me that business had been very slack in 2012 because of the financial crisis.
Most of the villages between the big towns (so far from Seville only Zafra and Mérida) have little of interest to see and in the afternoons – siesta time – virtually nothing moves. By 10 pm everybody is out: screaming babies, children playing, adults talking (= shouting!), football on TVs in the street outside bars, older people sitting in chairs on the pavement outside their front doors. It is still 28°C – but it can snow here in winter, apparently.
Today I left Mérida and passed by a dam built by the Romans some 5 km north of the city and which is still working.
From the lake where it is the Romans piped water to Mérida and over the remains of the aqueduct they now call “El Acueduc de los Milagros”.
Next important stop is Cáceres, 3 days walk away. I expect to see more pilgrims now as Mérida is a “confluence” of caminos from Granada (Via Mozarabe), Sevilla (Via de la Plata) and Cádiz.
I have just seen a sign telling me it is 740 km to go! So I have done about quarter distance.
23 September, 2012
23 September 2012 2 Comments
Le monastère
Aljucen à l’Embalse de Alcantara D14 – D18 91 km 327 km de Seville
Sorti de Mérida à l’aube je vois l’aquéduc avec ses arches silhouhettées contre le ciel. Deux jours de marche et j’arrive à “La Casa de la Misericordia” – Maison de la Pitié – laquelle est un monastère et réfuge pour les pauvres et handicappès ainsi que des pèlerins.
L’hospitalier était comme un militaire! Il m’ordonne de m’installer dans une cellule à 2 alors que j’ai sélectionné une cellule simple avant son arrivée.
“Chaussures et batons au fond du couloir,” martele – t – il. Alors, mon baton m’est un peu spécial et je ne veux pas que l’on ne le vole. Après l’enregistrement il se calme: il offre de le mettre dans sa chambre et puis, sur ma demande, il indique où rester la nuit suivante, une intelligence très utile.
Les règles de la maison: fermeture l’après-midi de 14h30 à 16h30 pour la siesta, dîner pèlerin a 19h30, fermeture de la porte d’entrée a 21h00. Tout le monde sauf moi était au lit à 21h15. Je lisait encore une heure. Le matin, porte ouverte a 06h30 et les 14 personnes partaient rapidement car il y avait 27 km à faire.
Régime la nuit suivante: aucune! L’intelligence que l’hospitalier m’a donnée était bonne car on dormait dans un hostal à titre privé avec des lits alors que ceux qui passaient dans l’auberge municipale dormaient sur les tatamis sur le plancher.
Actuellement je suis à 32 km au nord de Cáceres, autre ville avec beaucoup d’histoire. La vielle ville, de style espagnol ancien, est bien retenue.
Les prochaines étapes à Salamanca - à peu près 7 – 8 jours – s’annoncent difficiles: étapes longues et terrain accidenté. La période de sècheresse a terninée hier avec un orage sur Cáceres et ensuite quelques averses. Heureusement je ne marchais pas. Par contre, demain il est certain de pleuvoir.
Pour d’autres photos voir à www.flickr.com/photos/inthelot mais sans explications. (J’ai essayé hier d’en ajouter sur le blog mais j’ai perdu le texte et les photos.)
(Translation :
The monastery
Leaving Mérida at dawn I see the aqueduct with its arches silhoutted against the sky. Two days of walking and I arrive at the “House of Pity” – which is a monastery and refuge for the poor and the handicapped as well as for pilgrims.
The innkeeper was like a military man ! He ordered me into a cell for 2 whereas I had selected a cell for one person before he arrived.
“Boots and sticks in the corridor,” he boomed. Now, my stick is a bit special and I do not want anybody to steal it. After registering me he calmed down: he offered to put it in his room and then, following my question, he indicated where I should spend the next night; very useful intelligence.
Plates commemorating patron saints
The rules of the house: closed in the afternoon from 2.30 until 4.30 for siesta, pilgrims’ dinner at 7.30, main door closed at 9pm. Everybody except me was in bed by 9.15. I read for another hour. In the morning the door opened at 6.30 and the 14 people left rapidly as there 27km to cover.
The regime the following night: none! The intelligence the innkeeper had given me was good because we slept in a private hostal with beds whereas those who went to the municipal hostal slept on matresses on the floor.
Now I am 32 km north of Cáceres, another town with much history. The old town, in old Spanish style, has been well maintained.
The next stages to Salamanca - about 7- 8 days – will be difficult: long stages and over hilly ground. The dry period finished yesterday with a storm over Cáceres and then a few showers. Fortunately, I was not walking. On the other hand, tomorrow it is certain to rain.
For other photos see www.flickr.com/photos/inthelot but without captions. (I tried yesterday to add add some to the blog but I lost text and the photos.))
2 October, 2012
2 October 2012 1 Comment
The Roman Way
Embalse de Alcántara to Salamanca D19 – D26 190 km 515 km from Seville
Roman bridge near Embalse de Alcántara
There is plenty of evidence that this was a Roman way: buildings in the cities / towns – Zafra, Mérida, Cáceres, Salamanca – and objects in the country such as bridges and Roman “milestones” – what the Spanish call millarios. There are quite a few of them, the genuine old article from about 2000 years ago to a modern replica put in place here and there in recent times, and with a distance carved in the stone, eg CXXVIII. I was told they should be about 1500 metres apart and when I timed myself between 2 of them that seemed about right. The term millario indicates they were 1000 Roman paces apart. Indeed, later on I found distance measurement posts placed at 200 Roman paces apart. At the 1000 pace distance the Roman Mile increased by one. From the Roman Mile derives the UK Mile I concluded. Why we did not continue with a sensible distance division below each mile as the Romans must have done one wonders…..
The international cast has changed over the last 10 days or so. There have been Elizabeth from Australia (40s); Joël from France (61), a retired agricultural worker; Paul (30s) from Ireland; Domingo and Isais (60s) from Spain; and an Italian (60s). Two other actors were a German couple: the lady (60+) had arrived in my hostal having walked some 7km on crutches. She had a knee injury of sorts. I heard discussion of hospital, doctors and buses so I think their walk was over. Another character, for one night, was a Franchman walking from Belgium to Seville and Cádiz. He is a “professional” walker, having walked all over Europe including from Poland to the Portuguese coast (4600 km in 8 months). And I thought I was doing quite well with a 1000 km walk! Have also met Marie-Josi (50s), from Spain, a social service employee going as far as Zamora, and a Belgian couple (60s), Roland and Claudette, also going as far as Zamora.
The walk from Cáceres to Salamanca has been quite difficult to plan because I do not quite know what accommodation there will be in a village or hamlet on the way. Some of the villages are quite far apart and may have an albergue to stay in but no shop to buy provisions for the next day. A bar can sometimes help with a sandwich – but then, in the morning, bars and shops often do not open till late morning, long after I have departed, and the next village could be 20km further on if indeed there is one at all! Buying the evening before is possible sometimes but not always. In the last 2 villages I stayed in there was no shop at all and in one only one bar where I did order 2 “bocadillos” (=sandwich) for the next day which was to be a 40km walk.
Some of the albergues do provide a pilgrims’ meal: 3 courses, modest, with wine.
The countryside and weather have changed since Cáceres: quite sharp hill ranges (sierras), absence of sun for some days, and rain. Quite autumnal and a considerable contrast to the aridity and heat south of Cáceres. There have been some good walks lately and the last 2 days in sun, but cool.
Evidence of the ham industry is to be seen walking about in the form of black pigs! I tried some Bellota ham recently: really good, and the best. The most expensive too.
Salamanca is the halfway point to Santiago and I crossed the Roman bridge to enter the city on 1 October, 25 days after leaving Seville.
Puente romano at Salamanca
Many cities in Spain are impressive but of all those I have visited – and they are many – Salamanca must rate as the most impressive. (I have been here before, by car.) Cathedral, churches, university buildings, towers…. all old, many beautifully carved in stone and the Plaza Mayor, the principal square, which must be nigh on a perfect square, is one continuous building right round the square, connected at all corners, and with colonnade the whole way round. The buildings are 4 floors high.
I did recently catch up other pilgrims I did not expect to see again: the Belgian couple mentioned above, and a French woman and her 2 Canadian companions.
So, the plan is to spend 3 nights here in Salamanca, look around, rest and resume walking on 4 October. I write this as I sit outside in the Plaza Mayor at 8pm sipping wine.
The life of a walker sounds good you might think! At times it is, but yesterday was a long day (40km over 10+ hours) with a difficult climb (up to 1150m asl, from 950m) – rewarded with fine views – and the previous day in the rain. It is certainly a varied and contrasting experience. Enjoyable? On balance, yes.
Some new pictures have been uploaded to www.flickr.com/photos/inthelot
6 October, 2012
6 October 2012 0 Comments
La solitude d’un promeneur à longue distance
Salamanca à Zamora J27 – 30 68 km 583 km de Séville
La solitude d’un promeneur à longue distance. Ça peut etre une question: est-ce que l’on sent dans la solitude? Pour moi, quioque je marche tout seul, je ne me sens pas dans la solitude. Il est vrai que j’ai passé des jours sans voir un pèlerin mais il y en a d’autres où j’en vois 6 – 8 pendant la journée. D’ailleurs, à part les pèlerins, on croise à la campagne fermiers, autres marcheurs, ceux qui font le footing, des cyclistes de temps en temps. En ville, bien sûr, on voit des personnes mais dans les villages ce n’est pas certain que l’on les rencontre. Ceux que l’on croise presque toujours disent “Buenos días” et fréquemment “Buen camino”. Si je ne sais pas où aller je demande et les gens me donnent les directions qu’il me faut. La plupart des fois j’ai confiance mais il arrive des moments où je sens que les conseils que je reçois peuvent etre faux….
… Comme à Castellanos de Villiquera (le 4 octobre). Je sors du village, je suis une flêche jaune laquelle me dirige sur une piste, ayant remarqué une autre piste avec une croix jaune (= ne pas y aller) sur un pylon. Guère 20m sur la piste flêchée j’entends klaxoner derrière moi. Deux travailleurs du village me font signe de m’arrêter. Ils disent que la piste avec la croix était la bonne et je me trompais. On discute; ils expliquent; ils savent; ils sont du village. Puis arrive, par hasard, un employé de la mairie. Il s’arrête, écoute le problème, puis ” Non messieurs, vous vous trompez. Le chemin est où est la flêche. On passe sous l’autoroute et après 2e à droite! L’autre piste était fermée par l’autoroute.” Il s’en va. Je prends ses conseils lesquels sont corrects. Intervention divine?
Chemin faisant on double d’autres pèlerins puis, plus tard, ils me doublent. Nos rythmes sont différents.
A Salamanca, le soir, tout le monde sort pour se promener à travers les rues principales et, bien sùr, dans la Plaza Mayor, le coeur de la cité. J’ai découvert que l’université (quelques 15000 étudiants) est très vieille, qu’il y a 2 cathédrales (la vieille et la neuve) et celle-ci fût dédiée monument nationale en 1898, que la Plaza Mayor fût construite entre 1729 et 1755 et qu’elle est un carré parfait, et que la ville fût déclarée par UNESCO site de “World Heritage” en 2002.
C’était avec regret que j’ai quitté cette ville magnifique – mais le pèlerin doit poursuivre son chemin. Partant de Salamanca l’étape était courte (16 km): une journée superbe (soleil, pas trop chaud le matin) à travers des champs de céréales. J’ai retrouvé le couple belge (Roland et Claudette), et Marie – Josi, l’espagnole. Ils s’arrètent à Zamora.
Je suis actuellement à Zamora où je reste 2 nuits. En 3 jours au lieu de continuer en direction nord je vire en direction nord – ouest vers Santiago sur la Via Sanabrés.
(Translation :
The loneliness of a long distance walker. That could be a question: does one feel lonely? Although I walk alone I do not feel lonely. It is true that I have spent days without seeing a pilgrim but there are others when I see 6 – 8 during the day. Besides, pilgrims apart, in the country one meets farmers, other walkers, runners, cyclists from time to time. In towns, of course, one sees people but in villages it is by no means certain that one will meet anybody. Those that one does meet almost always say “Good morning” and often “Buen camino” (“Have a good walk” or literally “Good way”). If I do not know which way to go I ask and people give me the necessary directions. On most occasions I have confidence but sometimes there are moments where I feel the advice I receive could be wrong…
…Such as at Castellanos de Villiquera (on 4th October). I leave the village, follow a yellow arrow which directs me to a track, having noticed another track with a yellow cross (= do not go that way) on a pylon. Barely 20 m along the arrowed track I hear a hoot behind me. Two workers from the village indicate I should stop. They tell me that the track with the cross is the correct one and that I was wrong. We discuss it: they explain, they know, they are from the village, then, by chance, an employee from the town hall arrives. He stops, listens to the problem, then says, “No sirs, you are wrong. The way is where the arrow is. You go under the autoroute and afterwards 2nd on the right! The other route has been closed by the autoroute.” He goes off. I take his advice which is correct. Divine intervention?
Going along I overtake other pilgrims then, later, they overtake me.
Site of Battle of Salamanca: English against French
In Salamanca, in the evening, everybody goes out to stroll in the main streets and, of course, in the Plaza Mayor, the heart of the city. I discovered that the university (some 15000 students) is very old, that there are 2 cathedrals (the old and the new) and that the latter was dedicated as a national monument in 1898, that the Plaza Mayor was built between 1729 and 1755 and that it is a perfect square, and that the city was declared a World Heritage site in 2002 by UNESCO.
Plaza Mayor, Salamanca
Salamanca cathedral
A reflection in Salamanca
It was with regret that I left this magnificent city – but the pilgrim must continue on his way. Leaving Salamanca the stage was short (16km): a superb day (sun, not too hot in the morning) through fields of cereal crops. I found the Belgian couple again (Roland and Claudette), and Marie – Josi, the Spaniard. They are stopping in Zamora.
I am in Zamora at the moment where I am spending 2 nights. In 3 days time instead of continuing north I turn north west towards Santiago along the Via Sanabrés.
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Merci de ne pas oublier que vous pouvez faire vos dons à Médecins sans frontières à www.alvarum.com/graemebennett
11 October, 2012
October 2012 1 Comment
Thin man walking
Zamora to Santa Croya de la Tera D31 – D35 88 km 671 km from Seville
In Montamarta I bid “Adios” to Irishman Noel, Englishman Ron who return to Ireland, Fabrizzio and companion who speed on by a short cut towards Santiago. The Italians had kindly provided wine, beer, bread and cheese for our aperitif in the hostal in which we were staying.
Just before Fontanellas del Castro there is a choice of routes: bypass the village or enter it. I choose the latter (adding 1 km to my walk) to find a bar – refreshment necessary after 12 km of walking. No bar!
While resting on a slate wall at the edge of the village a white van passes, hoots loudly and stops. An old woman appears eventually and buys her bread. I espy advancing slowly towards me an old lady with walking stick. Eftsoons she reaches me, stops and asks:
“Where are you going?”
“To Granja de Moreruela, the next village, then Santiago.”
“Mmmmm….. That was the bread van which just passed.”
She moves past me, re-arranges some slates on the wall and then sits on it next to me. We exchange a few words, then I say I must be leaving. I climb into my harness and move off.
“Hóla! Hóla!” she shouts. I stop and return. She extends her hand and offers me a slightly wizened apple previously hidden in the folds of her black robes. I protest but she insists: “I have plenty more.”
I move on. The apple was quite good – so I did receive a small reward for my diversion into the village. Thus is the camino.
Later I arrive at Granja de Moreruela and search for the Casa Rural (private house) in which I want to stay. Even an enquiry at a bar fails to provide a location I am able to understand. Knowing there are quite a few pilgrims en route for this village I hasten to find a bed in the albergue. I enter (about 1330hrs) and discover 3 men comatose in their beds and one woman doing her ablutions. While lunching in the adjacent bar I see the albergue fill up (10 beds only). When I next go in it is like a hospital: most are in bed, sleeping!
I explore the village, discover the Casa Rural, arrange a room and move out of the albergue into comfortable surroundings. Thus is the camino.
The village of Granja de Moreruela is the turning point of my journey. The Via de la Plata continues north to Astorga, joins the Camino Francés and leads to Santiago ( I did that in 2005).
In Granja de Moreruela: the split in the camino
The Via Mozarabe Sanabrés goes north west to Orense and Santiago, my selected route. The going gets much tougher further on: sharp hills, mountains and in Galicia, almost certainly, rain. Thus is the camino.
This stone in Granja de Moreruela has a message for the pilgrim:
“Pilgrim. The Jacobean route splits here and here history is exalted: that of the Via de la Plata with the Camino Sanabrés which is born here; that of the town, adding to its glories with the Cistercian, generosity with the pilgrim and with life.
Walker, in the journey that you choose, let generosity be your footprint and your companion Senor Santiago.
On a track a man in his 60s in his car stops and greets me:
“Buenos dias, peregrino!”
He wants to know my nationality, where I live, my destination, where and when I started my walk, and tells me about a visit he made to France last year. We talk about Salamanca and Zamora, the weather, where to find a bar in the next village…….Thus is the camino.
The title of today’s post “Thin man walking” derives from a former US Marine who, by his own admission was fat, walked from California to New York in 2005-6 to lose weight. He achieved his goal (walking), had a huge following on his website www.thefatmanwalking.com (qv) and came to my notice through the BBC news. I do not anticipate the same notoriety and reception when I arrive in Santiago (hopefully 26 October). I have, however, lost weight!
Roadside publicity for the Casa Anita, Santa Croya de la Tera
—————————————————————————————————————Just a reminder that if you wish to make a donation to the charity for which I am raising funds The British Limbless Ex Servicemen’s Association you can do so at www.justgiving.com/graemebennett
20 October, 2012
La sierra
Santa Croya de la Tera à Vilavilla J36 – 39 82 km 783 km de Séville
In the Casa Anita at Santa Croya de la Tera : me, Anthony, Anna, Roberto
(Ecrit le 15 octobre)
Je me réveille. De mon lit à Requejo (près de 1000m d’altitude) je vois des étoiles. Je pense faire une courte étape aujourd’hui: que 18 km. 9 km après mon petit déjeuner je suis à l’endroit le plus élevé du périple: 1350m, en plein soleil. Pause café en descente. 4 heures 30 minutes après être parti je suis à Lubian, ma destination. Les options pour y rester sont: Casa Rural, Casa Irena (privée), bar.
Au Casa Rural j’arrive devant la porte avec un policier de la Guardia Civil. Eventuellement (il est 13h00) le propriétaire ouvre. Pendant que le policier l’interroge je regard à l’intérieure. Je n’aime pas ce que je vois: ça pue; le proprietaire n’était pas habillé (il était au lit peut-etre?). Je passe au bar: il n’y a pas de chambres à louer. Je passe chez Irena: on est fermé. La propriétaire a changé. Mes informations, je me rends compte, sont hors date! Mais………mais, la bonne dame de la maison téléphone à des amis pour découvrir où il y a des logements plus loin. Très gentille, elle.
Je suis ses conseils mais il y a 11 km à faire pour trouver l’hotel qu’elle récommande. Ce que je fais.
Deuxième sommet haut à traverser mais quoique la montée soit 60 minutes en continu la récompense est bonne: des vues imprenables.
Je passe la nuit à Vilavilla, plus loin que prévu. Le passage à travers les 2 cols étaient vraiment bon. Par contre, peu après en descente, le chemin était une petite rivière pendant quelques 200m. Je devais sauter de pierre à pierre pour y passer!
Le dilemme pour demain – à cause de la variation de mes plans – est de faire une étape de 12 km ou une étape de 33 km. Le dénivelé est difficile (je suis dans la Sierra de la Gamanada); on prévoit de la pluie.
Je suis dans la dernière région de mon périple, la Galicia, ayant passé par l’Andalucía, l’Extremadura et la Castilla y Leon. Une borne à la “frontière » de la Galicia m’informe qu’il reste 246 km à Santiago.
Ultreiya!
The route turned stream
(Translation :
(Written on 15 October)
I wake up. From my bed in Requejo (at nearly 1000m altitude) I see the stars. I am thinking of doing a short stage today: 18 km. 9 km after breakfast I am at the highest point of the walk: 1350m, in the sun. Coffee stop on the way down. 4 hours 30 minutes after leaving I am at Lubian, my destination. The options for staying there are: A Casa Rural (=private house), Casa Irena (= private house owned by Irena), a bar.
I arrive at the Casa Rural with a policeman from the Guardia Civil. Eventually the owner Opens up (it is 1300 hrs). While the policeman interrogates him I look around inside. I do not like what I see: it smells; the owner is not dressed (perhaps he was in bed?). I go to the bar: there are no rooms to be taken. I go back to Irena’s house: they are closed. The owner has changed. My information, I realise, is out of date! But….but, the good lady of the house telephones her friends to find out if there are lodgings further on. She was very kind.
I follow her advice but there are 11 km to do to find the hotel she recommends. Which I do.
A second summit to climb but although the ascent is 60 continuous minutes the reward is good: marvellous views.
I spend the night at Vilavilla, much further than anticipated. Going over 2 passes was really good. On the other hand, further down the descent, the way was a small river for some 200m. I had to jump from stone to stone to get through!
The dilemma for tomorrow – because of the change to my plans – is to do a stage of 12 km or or one of 33 km. The route’s profile is difficult (I am in the Sierra de la Gamanada); rain is forecast.
I am in the last region of my walk, Galicia, having benn through Analucia, Extramadura and Castilla y Leon. A marker stone at the Galician “frontier” tells me there are 246 km to Santiago.
Ultreiya! (= Onward!)
20 October, 2012
20 October 2012 0 Comments
The Santiago stroll
Vilavilla to Laza D40 – 41 48 km 830 km from Seville
From the comfort of my bed, in the night, I have heard the shutters rattling in the wind and I have seen rain on the window. Yesterday’s stage was curtailed at 14 km due to the poor weather and I know today’s is long at 34 km with rain forecast all day.
I suspect the walk between A Gudiña and Laza is one of the most attractive on this Camino. I saw nothing! For 4 1/2 hours after breakfast I walked in cloud (visibility 100m), driving rain, strong wind. I think I was on a ridge in the morning with what looked like a steep drop on one side and nearly flat on the other. Of course I was on the windward side - and thus benefited from the full force of the wind - and there were no trees to offer protection.
The only bar, after 19 km in Campobecerros, was most welcome. My fingers were so cold (8C outside) I had to get the bar woman to undo the ties on my cape! She also produced cake for me to eat which I had not ordered.
A lull in the bad weather for a few minutes was followed by more rain, less wind but more cloud. Only the last 45 minutes of an 8 hour stroll allowed marvellous views during a very long descent from 1000m to to 450m. The hotel was not a success. Freezing cold! When I suggested heating I was told there was none! It’s not cold enough! So the next morning a certain amount of the clothing went back on damp especially the boots which were completely sodden.
Country near Laza
20 October, 2012
20 October 2012 0 Comments
It’s not over till the fat lady sings
Laza to Ourense D42 – 44 58 km 888 km from Seville
Santiago is coming into sight but a lot can happen in 110 km so it’s not over yet! I arrived in Ourense, a spa town, yesterday and am spending 2 nights in quite a smart place. I need a bit of creature comfort after 2 days of long and difficult walking (one already described).
The second of the long days was characterised by a 9 km climb along a road to rise 500m to the village of A Alberguería. The hostelry to visit there was a bar named “El rincón del peregrino” (= The pilgrim’s corner). It was quite a place! It was cold outside (back at 900m or so again) so to walk into a bar with a good wood burning stove was most welcome. However, the real impact of the place is that it is hung with thousands of shells (coquilles de St Jacques), the pilgrims’ shell. Since 2004, the white bearded elderly gentleman (he really looked like one!) told me, every pilgrim who passes through writes on and signs a shell. He then hangs them up in his bar. Mine will be there somewhere. He also had some good music playing (not the usual blaring TV) and he put music on from my early years as I was the only one there until a South African woman arrived with a French woman. The S African recognised the music too.
This second long day ended in a new albergue in Xunqueria de Ambía where the mix was from S Africa, France, Australia and England, 7 in all. All but 2 were going to Santiago, the 2 having been there and were walking back to Salamanca.
It’s taken 11 days to walk from Zamora, the last proper town, to Ourense. It should be 5 days more to Santiago through what has to be some very attractive country. Let the clouds be high and not draped over the hills and sierras!
Ourense: statues and Ponto di Milano
25 October, 2012
25 October 2012 2 Comments
The last walk
Ourense to Santiago de Compostela D45 – 49 105 km 992 km from Seville
It is finished. I stepped into the Plaza de Obradoiro, Santiago de Compostela at 1355hrs, 25 October, 2012 having walked from Seville.
‘Neath the eastern, very pale blue sky with strips of clouds opposed by dark threatening clouds o’er in the west I set out this morning. No rain but plenty of sun and warm. Five days walking from Ourense, the last big town, and 2 of them have been in the rain. The rain itself is not a problem: it’s the clouds which come down and sit on the hills and obscure very fine views, and the wind, if any.
Anthony, my Australian companion of the last couple of weeks disappeared after I last saw him in Ourense. However, we met in a square this afternoon in Santiago, had a drink together and toasted each other and the Camino. He told me he is a teacher of Aborigines on an island off the North Western Territories of Australia. He is having a sabbatical year.
The last few days have been through some beautiful countryside – almost forests of chestnut trees, eucalyptus to name but 2 species of tree in this area. The glory that is Galicia is probably best seen in summer.
I guess a comparison with my previous walk from Le Puy en Velay to Santiago in 2005 is inevitable. While this walk has been worthwhile it has not been as good nor as interesting as the other. However, local people along the way have probably been more friendly and some of them notably so.
Charmian, my wife, has met me in Santiago so there will be a couple of days here to celebrate before moving on.
Whether you be walking the last 100 km or so with only a light bag and the rest of your effects being taken for you to the next hotel / albergue…..
whether you be walking 1000 km with all your kit and staying in hotels and / or albergues….
whether you be able only to walk for a week or 2 each year….
whether you be walking for religious reasons, escapism, seeing the Caminos as a challenge, or walking for pleasure…..
whether you be walking on your own, with wife / husband / companion or in a group…..
…. all are joined together, temporarily, into the confraternity of the Caminos, even of St James, the wearing of the Jacobean mantle and the wish to complete the journey into Santiago de Compostela.
Thus are we, now, walking in the shadow of pilgrims who have gone before.
3 November, 2012
3 November 2012 0 Com3ments
Afterwords
Having walked into Santiago, met my wife in the Plaza de Obradorio where all pilgrims meet and greet, taken a photograph or two, we slipped away into the local hostal which bills itself as the oldest hotel in the world, having been used by pilgrims from time immemorial. Its date of foundation was 1499 they say. I was pleased to see other pilgrims booking in the day I arrived. We went to Mass in the cathedral the day after my arrival, a Friday. The cathedral was absolutely packed: standing room only and there were a lot of people standing. Not only were there a fair number of walking pilgrims present but also quite a few who had come by coach, notably from Italy.
On balance a good walk but not as good as good as the Camino from Le Puy en Velay and the Camino Francés. The spring is probably the best time for the Via de la Plata. Galicia, in fine weather and especially in summer, would be outstanding. The Spanish woman I met in Seville the day before I started and who asked what Camino I would do after Granja de Moreruela (where the routes split) said that the Via Sanabrés was the best, was not wrong. She agreed I had chosen well.
The international cast I met when travelling has, of course, dismissed itself and is spread around the world again. The breadth of interest of the characters is wide: the cast itself from 12 nations (Australia, England and Scotland, Ireland, Hungary, France, Spain, South Africa, Canada, Belgium, Germany, Italy, the Czech Republic).
The Spanish people – not pilgrims – I encountered along the way were always helpful and, for the most part, friendly:
Cesar at Casa Cesar in a village between Ourense and Cea. Very welcoming fellow in his “bar” who encouraged you to go in and have a chat, coffee and biscuits, showed you his book of pilgrims who have gone before, only asked for a donation….
The man I met on the way to Tábara who quizzed me about my nationality, told me where to stay, what the weather would do, discussed his last visit to France….
Anna in Casa Anita, the albergue at Santa Croya de la Tera, who was a lovely hospitalera; very welcoming and helpful; who insisted on a photo taken of her pilgrims each day and which she posted on Facebook….
Those excellent people who re-directed me when I was on the wrong path and put me back onto the Camino….
At Oliva de Plasencia, the hospitalera Monica, who never stopped talking but interestingly especially about the problems caused by landowners over whose land the VdlP runs but who do not allow access, and who cooked a good supper for the 7 pilgrims present………
The bar woman at Campobecerros who welcomed me when wet and cold on the worst weather day of my walk (17 October)…..
The well meaning woman I met on my first day in Guillena who explained to me not to stay in a hotel there as there was a brand new albergue with air conditioning (it was closed due to the fiesta taking place but she did not know that), and her explanation all about the fiesta, the patron saint of the village…..
….and others.
My sources of information for this pilgrimage were:
A French guide I found written in 2008 and which was often out of date as the Camino seems to have changed and which I may update;
The Santiago forum http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/
My own experience from 2005;
I discovered in my last week of walking a good site (Eroski Consumer) with a guide in Spanish and maps which I think would have been very useful had I known about it: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/
I have posted a selection of photos at www.flickr.com/photos/inthelot
4 November, 2012
Statistics
SS November 2012 0 Comments
Statistics can be what you make of them but here are a few regarding my walk from Sevilla to Santiago and, as you will know, one has plenty of time to do the calculations:
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Distance walked: Days walking: Days from Sevilla to Santiago:
Average distance / day:
Walking speed:
Temperature range:
Rain:
Hours walking:
Walking speed by week:
Hours walked by week:
Walking speed by pace: Hottest afternoon: Coldest morning: Earliest starting time:
Latest finishing time: Weight of rucksack:
My weight loss: My age:
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993 km 42 49 (includes extra days days in cities)
23.64 km
3.90 km in the hour (including stops while walking between each destination) 4° to 35°C (while actually walking. It was hotter later in the afternoon after I had stopped) It rained on 7 days, the first being on Day 19, 25 September, the last on Day 48, the penultimate day, 24 October
254.43 (including stops while walking between each destination), or 6.05 hrs / day
There were 6 weeks walking and the speeds by week were: 3.87 km in the hour, 4.05, 3.80, 4.10, 3.93, 3.73 39.76, 34.59, 51.51, 38.75, 46.07, 43.75
116 paces per minute 15 September near Villafranca de los Barros: 35°C 12 October at Santa Croya del Tera: 4°C 0605hrs on 9 September (30 km to do)
1710 hrs on 30 September (after 40 km); 10hrs 10’ walking 12 – 14 kg (including 2 – 3 litres of water and food for the day’s walk) 4 kg from 74 kg I’m not disclosing everything! |
19 January, 2013
Funds raised
The funds raised for my charities were £591for BLESMA and E195 for Médecins sans frontières.
Santiago: stone in Plaza Obradoiro at the end of all caminos
Annex “Lodgings” to VdlP
3 November, 2012
Lodgings
Each
person who walks decides where he wants to stay. I post here the list
of places where I stayed, with prices, for any who may be interested.
All prices are what I paid for a single individual for one night
although, frequently, I was in a double room when in hostals /
hotels. From the list you can see what my stages were, not always
coinciding with what guide books / notes suggest. Comments are, of
course, completely subjective. What I regard as “poor” may be
graded “good” by another person. That said, I did find very
helpful the comments made by one or two others on the Santiago forum
and took them into account when deciding where to stay.
Seville:
Hotel Simon > E35 > Gd
Guillena: Hotel Francés > E23
> OK
Castilblanco de los Arroyos: Albergue > E5 >
Poor
Almadén de la Plata: Casa Concha > E20 > Gd
El
Real de la Jara: Alojamiento Molina > E10 > OK
Monasterio:
Hostal El Pilar > E25 > Gd
Fuente de los Cantos: El
Zaguan de la Plata > E15 > Excellent
Zafra : Hotel Las
Palmares > E18 > OK
Villafranca de los Barros: Casa
Perin > E18 > V gd
Torremejia: Albergue Rojo-Plata >
E12 > OK
Mérida: Hotel Senero > E27 > OK
Aljucen:
Albergue > E10 > OK
Alcuescar: Casa de la Misericordia
(albergue) > Donativo > OK
Valdesalor: Casa Belen >
E12 > Gd
Caceres: Hotel don Carlos > Expensive! > V
gd
Embalse de Alcantara: Albergue de Garrovillas > E15
(incl b’fast) > V gd
Grimaldo: Albergue > Donativo >
Grim
Galisteo: Hostal Los Emigrantes > E20 > Gd
Oliva
de Plasencia: Albergue turistico > E15 (incl b’fast) > V
gd
Aldeanueva del Camino: Hostal Montesol > E15 >
Gd
Valverde de Valdelacasa: Albergue > E5 > Basic
San
Pedro de Rosado: Hostal VII > E20 > V gd
Salamanca:
Hostal Plaza Mayor > Expensive > V gd
Calzada de
Valdurciel: Hostal El Pozo > E25 > Gd
Villanueva de
Campean: Albergue > E6 > Basic
Zamora: Hostal El Sur >
Expensive > V gd
Montamarta: Hostal “Comestibles Mares”
> E25> V gd
Granja de Moreruela: Casa Tio Quico >
E25 > V gd
Tabara: Hostal El Roble > E20 > Gd
Santa
Croya de la Tera: Casa Anita (albergue) > E11 > V gd
Rionegro
del Puente: Bar Palacio > E15 > OK
Palacios de Sanabria:
Casa Teresa > E20 > OK
Requejo: Hotel Maite > E20 >
Gd
Villavella: Casa O Cantairo > E15 > Basic
A
Gudina: Hostal Madrilena > Expensive > V gd
Laza: Hotel
A Nosa > E25 > Poor
Xunqueira de Ambia: Albergue > E5
> V gd
Ourense: Hotel Francisco II > Expensive >
Excellent
Cotelas: Café el Refugio > E15 > OK
Donsion:
Hostal Camino de Santiago > E20 > Gd
Bandeiro: Hotel
Victorino > E25 > Gd
Ponte Ulla: Pension O Cruceiro >
E20 > V gd
Santiago: Hostal > Expensive > Outstanding
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